Skip to main content

Herboponics: A Smart Hydroponic Garden

Have your own garden to grow your vegetables. Many people dream of it, but they don’t have any idea that how to space or to imagine it as a chore. However, with the cultivation techniques that Smart Garden offers, they have no more excuses.

With Smart Garden, you do not need land or have great gardening skills. This innovative hydroponic system allows you to grow up to six plants simultaneously up to 1 ft high such as tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, herbs, among others, without pesticides or chemicals that can affect your health. In addition to being adapted to many types of plants, it promises to make your life easier and with a minimum of human intervention since everything can be automated, whether it is the time when it switches to night mode, its schedules Automatic watering according to the stage of development of the plant or its intensity of lighting during the day …

The system has intelligent control that allows you to adjust the light levels, as well as the spectrum and light intensity, and its irrigation. Depending on the spectrum of light, its balance and intensity,  the flavor of the plant can be changed, which is surprising in itself. The light used is equivalent to sunlight and can be adjusted according to the growth phase of the plant.

Curiosity drives us to look for new plants and new flavors -Loiske

Smart Garden is energy efficient because it has an operating cost of less than 30 US dollars (27 Euros) per year, using around 120 kWh. Low energy consumption prevents excessive heat that would be harmful to the plant. The Smart Garden can provide about 5 kg of tomatoes each month.

Good Planting Tips: Technique For Potted plants

Want to bloom your terrace or your balcony? Discover our tips to plant in pots. A pretty flowerpot, a well-chosen plant, and your terrace will be highlighted by a nice, colorful and fragrant flowering. Potted planting requires following a few simple rules to ensure healthy plants.



1. Choose your container

The choice of the container should not be random, or conversely, if you already have your flowerpot, choose a plant that will please. Some varieties of plants need more or less space to grow. In general, it is the type of plant chosen that determines the dimensions of the planter.


The material of the pot

Different materials exist zinc, iron, terracotta, wood, plastic, concrete, and even fabric. For its major advantages, I advise you to prefer plastic flower pots, they are light, modern, solid, frost-resistant, with various shapes and varied and they often have a reserve of water.


With or without water reserve?

The water reserve of a flower pot helps prevent rotting of the roots and allows to irrigate the plants regularly and slowly. This is ideal when you go on vacation or if you do not have time to take care of your plants.


There are two criteria for choosing the right size of your flowerpot: width or diameter and depth. The large pots will be able to accommodate shrubs, a hotpot of several varieties of plants and plants with the falling port. While small pots will be more suitable for annuals, bulbs, and perennials. Again this is only a general rule.

With regard to the depth of the pot, the rule is that the depth must be equal to one-third of the final height of the plant.


2. Prepare your flowerpot

First of all, you will have to prepare your container. In order for the water to drain properly, drain holes must be created in your flower box. Some models already have some, or some sites are pre-drilled. If this is not the case, even drill the bottom of your pot with several small holes or a large one.


The draining

Now you need to fill the bottom of your pot with a bed of clay balls, this on 1/5 th of the height of the pot. This drainage is an essential step for the success of your plantation. It prevents the roots from rotting in stagnant water at the bottom of the pot.

If you have a pot with water reserve, it is not mandatory to set up the drainage, because the water reserve can regulate the water contained in the bottom of the pot.

After laying the bed of clay balls, you can install a geotextile felt. It allows to retain the soil during watering, thus avoiding dirtying the terrace, and that the drainage holes are not blocked by the earth.


The substrate

To plant your plant, choose a good potting soil. There is potting soil specially designed for potted plants. You can also use universal potting mix mixed with garden soil and compost. Some also advise putting some sand.

Now your pot is ready to welcome your plant!


3. Finish the planting

If you put several varieties of plants, first test them by placing them without planting them. Ideally, the tall plants should be in the center of the pot, the low plants around and the falling plants on the edge.



You must let the plants breathe, take care to space them 10 to 15 cm when planting.

Start by drenching your plant, for this, soak it for a few minutes in a bucket of water. If necessary, separate the roots.

Place your plant or plants in the pot thus prepared, and put back a layer of the substrate. Tamp and water generously.

Smart Garden At Home. Some Ideas To Make Them Successful

Urban agriculture offers us many possibilities. From small crops developed in a few square meters to smart garden, commercial and successful home gardens that use advanced technology to produce large quantities of food in vertical spaces.


It is not always easy to identify at the beginning where we think that our incipient and not yet born project can arrive. That is why it is important to consider the following aspects:


Developing smart home gardens that are organic and organic is possible. However, if we expect significant economic retribution for this work, we must take into account the space and the possibilities of vertical development that it offers us.


Thinking with desire does not seem to be a good idea at this stage of the project. Our first advice is to be objective. Find out what minimum space is required for the different vegetables you intend to grow. What are the total times of the cultivation cycle, what quantities could be produced as costs in the space you have disposed. If the figures are promising, well nothing … move forward with the next step.



The vegetables we consume travel long roads before reaching our table. If we manage to implement smart gardens at home, which are also organic, we can shorten the chain ostensibly, offering a friendly product with the environment, healthy and with much lower costs than their relatives who travel from the countryside.



To promote urban agriculture it is necessary that several similar projects join together and manage to identify a common main objective. Cooperative makes it possible to share knowledge, resources and promote processes that lead to the right decision making.

It also requires the commitment of citizens, educators, organizations, civil society and of course government agencies who must work together taking advantage of the division of labor and specialization.



Your project has to be clearly visible, not only for your neighbors and your relatives. The whole community and its surroundings should know the existence of smart gardens at home and the cooperative association that you have achieved. Of course of this and to ensure the economic survival of the project, the existence of it will depend.

Urban Gardening – Changing Our Cities With Gardens

Urban Gardening – Make Yourself And Your City Happy!


Toxic Vegetables: You Must Pay Attention To This When Breeding

The zucchini belongs to the families of cucurbits. With own breeding, certain warning signs should be considered.

Hamburg.   Vegetables from your own garden are usually especially healthy. A 79-year-old man in Heidenheim (Baden-Wuerttemberg) was doomed: He died of severe poisoning by a self-grown zucchini.

The pensioner had eaten a casserole with the vegetables, although the meal tasted very bitter. He ignored the botanical warning that plants use to signal that they are poisonous.



Zucchini, pumpkins, and cucumbers belong to the Cucurbitaceae family, Latin Cucurbitaceae. The name refers to a group of 20 bitter substances, the cucurbitacin. Among the individual substances, some are particularly poisonous, such as Amarin. “Bitter substances have the function of protecting plants from pests,” says Dr. Petra Schwarz, Director of the Agricultural Crop Museum at the Biozentrum Klein Flottbek (Loki Schmidt House). “The bitter taste indicates that the plant is poisonous.”

Cucurbitacin is extremely toxic and extremely bitter, says Schwarz – “I’m surprised that the man ate the zucchini at all.” In fact, the Heidenheimer pensioners reported that “it has tasted terribly bitter,” says Norbert Pfeufer, medical director of the central emergency room at Heidenheim Hospital. There, the 79-year-old was taken together with his wife two weeks ago with signs of gastrointestinal infection. The pensioner died on Sunday as a result of the severe poisoning, says Pfeufer. The woman ate only a small amount and survived.

As a member of the family, Cucurbitaceae Zucchini naturally contains bitter substances. But these have been bred out, says Petra Schwarz. “The common varieties are hybrid plants. If hobby gardeners gain seeds from them, then the genetic material splits into different genetic lines. So it can happen that in the offspring again bitter substances are present. “She warns against gaining seeds from the garden plants – the manufacturers of commercial seed would have to prove that it is pure.

Recommendation: Only controlled seed should be used

Also, Dr. Andreas Schaper, director of the Poison Information Center North at the University of Göttingen, recommends using generally controlled seed. In the nearly 20 years that the center exists, there have been 72 cases involving zucchini, says Schaper. The center serves as a poison center for the states of Lower Saxony, Schleswig-Holstein, Hamburg and Bremen. “In 34 cases, those affected said that the zucchini had a bitter taste,” says Schaper. “Fortunately, we have not had a death by zucchini, just a moderate poisoning with vomiting diarrhea.” In addition, Schaper remembers another moderate poisoning by ornamental gourds. The affected patient had suffered from bloody bowel inflammation.



While the bitter substances have been bred out in cucumbers and gourds, they are still partially contained in ornamental gourds – if harvested for decoration purposes only, the poison content is insignificant. “As pumpkins, like zucchini, are fertilized by bees, they can be crossed with ornamental pumpkins. This is possibly among the plants because they belong to the same family, “says Petra Schwarz. “Even the offspring of such crossbreeds can contain bitter substances” – a second argument against the rearing with own seeds. In addition, it could lead to genetic spontaneous changes, says Schwarz.

External factors, such as hot temperatures during cultivation, transport or storage of courgettes, cucumbers, and pumpkins, can also cause bitter substances to form in the vegetables. This happens preferentially at the Fruchtansatz, so black. The outer, firm meat is less affected. Cucumbers should, therefore, be peeled from the top on which the flower was sitting. “I remember that my mother used to try cucumbers while she processed them. Some tasted bitter in the end, she had cut off the part generously. This has never happened to me with cucumbers from the trade. “

Cut off is the only correct measure because the Cucurbitacin is not to be destroyed by cooking.

Basil: How To Cultivate It?

Gourmets around the world appreciate basil for its unique taste, aroma and a lot of useful properties. Do you know which basil is the most useful? Of course, self-made!

Basil is thermophilic, for obtaining earlier greenery it is better to grow it through seedlings. Sow basil needs about 2 months before planting in the ground at the end of March. Basil seedlings are usually ready for planting 35-50 days after germination.

Ground mix for basil should be loose and nutritious. The composition of the soil mixture: hummus or well-rotted compost, peat, washed sand (2: 4: 1). Sift the mixture and steamed in a water bath for 1 hour. Heat treatment will destroy the spores of fungal diseases and weed seeds that are contained in humus or compost, it will save you from problems with growing seedlings. If you use the ready-made soil mixture from the store, it is enough to shed it with a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate or any anti-fungal drug ( Fitosporin, Vitaros, Maxim ).

Fill the sowing container with a depth of 5-7 cm. Fill it with the prepared mixture and slightly condense so that it remains about 1 cm to the edge of the dish. The ground should be crumbly, slightly damp. If you are going to sow several varieties of basil, it is convenient to use cassettes. 

Spread the seeds evenly over the soil surface. Do not forget to immediately put labels with the name of varieties. This will help you choose the varieties you like later.


basil, growing and care, sowing seedlings


Fill the cassettes with the remaining earth so that the basil seeds are at a depth of 0.5-1cm. Tighten slightly again. Carefully water the crops.

Make sure the seeds are not on the surface of the soil. Cover the crop with glass or plastic. Put in a bright warm place.


basil, growing and care, sowing seeds


At a temperature of + 20 … + 25 ° C, basil seedlings appear in 10-12 days. After emergence of shoots remove shelter. So that the seedlings do not stretch, keep the temperature no more than + 16 … + 20 ° С. You need to water with warm water. Make sure that the water does not remain in the pan after watering. When watering basil can hit the blackleg.


basil, growing and care, seedling seedlings


After the first pair of true leaves appear in basil, you can begin to pick a  seedling.

Basil, cultivation and care, seedlings before picking


For picking basil, you can use a mixture of the same composition as for sowing. Just add to it 2 tablespoons of ash and 1 tablespoon (without a slide) of a complete mineral fertilizer per 5 liters of earth mixture. Mix well to fertilizer evenly distributed in the soil.

Fill cassettes or pots, seal. Make small indentations with a spatula and evenly distribute in them, trying not to damage the roots. Sprinkle and compact a little.


basil, cultivation and care, pickling seedlings


When planting, do not dig basil seedlings. Planting depth should be the same as that of shoots.


basil, cultivation and care, the depth of the seedling when picking up seedlings


Carefully water so that the seedlings do not fall. If necessary, correct them before the water is completely absorbed.


basil, growing and care, watering seedlings


Further care consists of regular watering with warm water. If the weather does not allow basil to be planted at the time calculated by you, in 2-3 weeks feed the seedlings and pinch the shoots above the 6-8 leaf. 2 weeks before planting begin to harden the seedlings in the fresh air. The temperature of hardening basil should not be below + 5 … + 10 ° С.


basil, growing and care, ready to plant seedlings


When the soil warms up to + 15 ° C, you can start planting seedlings.

Choose a place for basil, protected from the winds and illuminated by the sun for at least 6-8 hours a day. Basil feels very good under the covering material stretched over the arc. You can plant it on the edge of the track in the greenhouse.

Basil seedlings are easy to extract from the cassette when the roots are fully mastered earthen room.


basil, growing and care, planting seedlings with a lump


Basil does not tolerate heavy clay soils. Fill the ground well with humus or compost. If the soil is clay, add peat and sand. Planted seedlings at a distance of 25 cm in a row, between rows – 30 cm.


basil, cultivation and care, planting in the ground 

After planting, water the plants. Basil grows well green mass if you do not allow overdrying of the soil.


basil, cultivation and care, watering planted seedlings


Remove inflorescences in time, then basil will produce new shoots.

How Can We Grow Vegetables On The Balcony?

In our articles you found, basically, tips on how to grow vegetables in the open field. However, what about those who do not have a dacha? In this article, we will answer this question. The fact is that vegetables can be grown at home. Not only peppers and tomatoes but even cucumbers and strawberries. Therefore, all year you can enjoy fresh vegetables grown at home, without shopping.

The advantages of home mini – garden

This method has many advantages. Firstly, in the apartment, you will be able to enjoy fresh vegetables, fruits, greens for a whole year. The next advantage (and the most important thing in our time) is saving. After all, it is no secret to anyone that in the winter the price of vegetables and fruits increases markedly. And you want to see fresh cucumbers, tomatoes at home on the New Year’s table. With a mini garden on the balcony, you will not depend on the shops and prices.

The undoubted advantage is the cultivation of vegetables on the balcony, that you will know more about the plants and the methods of their cultivation in the apartment, will gain invaluable experience in gardening. Vegetables on the windowsill, in addition, can become a favorite hobby. Such landings at home are a cause for pride. Just imagine how you will surprise loved ones with fresh vegetables.

How to grow vegetables on the windowsill

Garden on the windowsill


A place

First, decide on a place. Balconies or window sills are great for growing vegetables. The ideal option for the location of the garden at home would be the lighter side. If there is no such place, do not be in a hurry. Also, if there is not enough space at home, it is allowed to construct special racks or extend the window sill.



Everything is clear with the place. Next, go to the choice of packaging. You can use clay or plastic pots, as well as wooden boxes. Just do not forget to make holes in the bottom of the container to drain the water. Pots used as a place for growing vegetables should be placed on special pallets.


The soil

Another issue that needs to be addressed before planting seeds in the soil. In the store, you can find a large number of mixtures intended for the cultivation of vegetables in room conditions. Often, they all consist of three components: peat, turf, and compost. Some gardeners themselves prepare the soil for the future plot.



The selection of seeds must be approached carefully. Read all that is written on the package. After all, some seeds are great for home, and others – only for open ground. It is advisable to read the specialized literature in advance or ask an experienced gardener to decide on the variety. In addition to the above, it is recommended to purchase dressing, fertilizers, thermometers, capacity, where water will settle. Note that the home garden should be watered with a pre-settled liquid. It remains to solve the main question – what to plant.


What can be grown on the balcony

The most common vegetable crops in the apartment on the balcony or windowsill are peppers, tomatoes, radishes, carrots, cucumbers. Let’s take a look at each of the vegetables individually and find out how to get a big harvest at home.


Peppers on the windowsill

The temperature in the room should be +25 degrees. You can get a harvest in 100 – 130 days after planting seeds. It is recommended to use a special soil that will be saturated with useful microelements.

Place the seeds of the pepper in small containers and cover them with cling film on top. Next, vegetable culture is placed in a warm place at home. If you see sprouts, make punctures in the film. After some time, the sprout should get stronger. This means that it is time to transplant peppers in large containers.


Peppers on the windowsill

The procedure for transplanting vegetables is done carefully. Not one root of the pepper should not suffer.

It remains to pour the water over the pepper. Further, the irrigation process should be systematic – once a day. This vegetable culture is constantly in need of light. Keep peppers from drafts and direct sunlight. Fertilizers with a nitrogen content are excellent for feeding with peppers. Do not use potash fertilizers. They adversely affect peppers. If you do it right, the pepper will grow in the mini – garden not for a year, but two.

Cherry tomatoes on the balcony

For home, garden uses the following varieties of cherry: bead, bonsai, pygmy. The optimum temperature at home for a tomato is +23 degrees. The plant ripens about 100 days after planting. The land is better to buy in a specialty store.

As a container, use a cylindrical container, so the root system will be better to fill the container. Germinate seeds in small containers. Next, place the planting material at a depth of one and a half centimeters. Cover the pot with foil and leave in a warm place until germination.


Cherry tomatoes on the windowsill


After the sprouts get stronger, they need to be planted in a large container. It is necessary to organize uniform lighting. To this end, many gardeners install fluorescent lamps above the plant.

Watering should be done carefully. As soon as the cherry gets stronger, you can begin to periodically loosen the soil and make nutrient fertilizers. If you see that the trunk breaks under the weight of the fruit, it should be tied to a stick or any other support. Constantly observe the plant, because it can suffer from pests or other diseases. On the balcony, you can grow not only cherry tomatoes but also ordinary tomatoes.

Mini garden with radishes

For radish enough temperature of +18 degrees. It is possible to enjoy ripened fruits after 40 days. This vegetable culture grows well in containers of wood or clay. However, ordinary plastic glasses will do as well. For a radish, select loose, well-drained soil. Before planting, be sure to check the planting material for the ability to sprout. Next, the seeds are placed in a container to a depth of one centimeter.

After planting radish seeds should be watered and covered with a film. It is allowed to remove the film only after shoots have appeared. Experienced gardeners occasionally place a container of vegetables in the house for three days at a place with a temperature of up to +18 degrees. This serves as a kind of hardening for the plant. It is necessary to feed a radish in 5 days from the moment of emergence of the first shoots.


Radish on the windowsill


Water it as needed. It is desirable that at home in the room the air was not dry.

We grow carrots on the windowsill

Amsterdam variety is well suited for indoor cultivation. Carrots should be in a place with a temperature of about +25 degrees. You can enjoy the vegetables after 70 days. When choosing a soil, give preference to drainage. Plant seeds to a depth of 2-3 centimeters. Shoots need thinning: leave the strongest, and weak ones – remove. At the same time, the shoots should be at a distance of two centimeters from each other. Carrots love moisture. However, watch that there is no overabundance of moisture because the vegetable can simply rot. Fertilizers with a minimum nitrogen content are excellent for feeding.


Homemade Cucumbers

The following varieties of cucumbers will grow excellently on the windowsill: miracle on the window, ant, room Rytov. Choose a place with a temperature of +24 degrees. You can make a cucumber salad after 45 days (depending on the variety). The only problem in the cultivation of cucumbers associated with the choice of packaging. Six-liter containers are required. Use loose soil with peat and compost.

When growing vegetables, home-grown varieties of culture grow better at home. Before planting seeds need to check for germination. To do this, place the planting material in a weak salt solution. If some seeds have surfaced, they must be thrown away. They will not germinate in the soil. Put good seeds in solution with potassium permanganate.

Next, planting material should be washed on a wet gauze and planted in the soil. As in the previous cases, the container is covered with a film. After the sprouts grow, they should be transplanted into larger containers. Watering should be done once a day. Use potassium nitrate as a fertilizer. The scourge of cucumber must be tied up on special supports so that the culture can weave.

You Can Grow These Fruits And Vegetables In The Flat -Even Without Garden

It is fresher, spares the wallet and the cultivation can be enormously fun: self-grown fruit and vegetables only have advantages. But many do not live in the countryside with a garden. But there are some things that you can grow in a city apartment!

Herbs on the window sill have one or the other maybe already at home. But you can grow much more in your own four walls! The only requirement is usually a good sun place. We show you five vegetables and fruits that you can easily grow at home:

1. Avocados

avocado 16041_1280


The super-healthy and tasty fruit you can actually breed easily at home. All you need is the core of an avocado. Just remove it and put three to four toothpicks in the middle. Then you put the whole in a glass of water, the side with the toothpicks must point upwards. Place the glass in a warm place, eg on the windowsill, and water well again. After a few weeks, a small tree should be able to grow, which you can plant in a pot. Soon you will be able to harvest your own avocado.

2. garlic


You can also grow garlic in the apartment. All you need is a small flower pot and a clove of garlic. Similarly, this also works with the head on spring onions. How exactly is it, so that you can soon reap your own garlic.

3. Lemons


Granted, lemons grow only when you live in a light-filled apartment. The citrus fruits need a lot of Sun and tend to grow in high humidity. Otherwise, the cultivation is relatively simple.

4. carrots


You can plant carrots in a flower box. But it should also be about 20 centimeters deep and wide so that the whole thing works. Also, drainage holes are needed, so you should collect the water in a bowl under the box when you put him in the apartment. Carrots need a lot of Sun but are otherwise easy to handle in care.


5. Green beans


You can also grow green beans in the flower box – the bigger, the better. Because the larger the container, the less often you have to water the plants. Otherwise, the beans are not as problematic as carrots. The only thing you have to keep in mind here is that the beans need around eight hours of sun each day.

If you do not trust your green thumb, then you can shop here too: in the world’s largest fruit and vegetable market!

What Is The Secrets Of Strawberry Harvest?

Strawberry growing conditions

Garden strawberries need full light throughout the daylight hours. Even a slight sliding shadow (for example, from a nearby tree) significantly reduces the yield and quality of berries. Relatively shade-tolerant only some varieties.

Place for planting and growing strawberries should be flat or with a slight (up to 5 °) slope to the south. It is undesirable to grow strawberries in lowlands, where cold air accumulates in the spring, and flowers often suffer from late frosts. The place must be protected from the wind (so that the snow does not blow away in winter). The root system of strawberries begins to freeze out at a temperature of -10 …- 12 ° C, long frost-free frosts are dangerous for it.

Garden strawberries are not planted on flooded areas, and the groundwater level should be no closer than 0.8 m to the soil surface. If groundwater is higher, with intensive care (frequent watering or drip irrigation, snow retention), strawberries can be cultivated on raised ridges.


The soil for planting strawberries is preferably sandy, light or medium loamy, with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction (pH 5.5-6.5). Before planting, they dig up the soil on a spade bayonet, introduce peat and hummus (5-8 kg / sq. M), complete mineral fertilizer that does not contain chlorine (40-50 g / sq. M). Particular attention should be paid to cleaning the soil from the roots and rhizomes of weeds: strawberries are usually grown in one place without a transplant for 3-4 years, perennial weeds will make it difficult to weed and care.


Allowable strawberry precursors: beets, lettuce, cicorn salad.

The best predecessors: siderata, peas, beans, beans, onions, garlic, radishes, parsley, dill, carrots, celery, corn.

Bad predecessors: tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, cucumbers, zucchini, potatoes, raspberries, cabbage.

Optimum terms of the landing of strawberry. 

The landing time depends on the onset of favorable weather conditions. Each region has its own calendar dates. The approximate dates of planting seedlings with an open root system (ACS) in the spring: from mid-April to late May and in the fall from early August to mid-October.

Seedlings of strawberries grown in containers can be planted throughout the growing season because Since the root system is well developed and occupies the entire volume of the container, the plant is not damaged during transfer (transfer) from the container to the ground.

Seedlings purchased in garden centers and grown at home from seed: the end of spring – the beginning of summer.

Seedlings obtained by rooting daughter outlets: the end of July – the beginning of August

Seedlings purchased in the parcel: September.

Strawberry – superintensive culture. If you plant it in early autumn, then next summer you can already pick berries. But although strawberries live for twenty years, it gives maximum yields for only the first three years. With each new summer, everything will decrease and deteriorate: the number of berries, their taste, and size.


How to care for strawberries

Throughout the year, keep the soil on the plantation loose and free from weeds. Mulching helps to greatly facilitate the cultivation of strawberries.

In dry weather, strawberries are watered all summer at least once a week, until September.


Even the most unpretentious varieties of single fruiting require 3-4 supplements per year. Moreover, the most important dressing – after harvesting strawberries. Repair strawberries need to be fed every 7-10 days until September.

After harvesting, the plantation is cleaned of plant residues and mustaches unused for breeding. It is also recommended to remove old, affected by mottling and mite leaves.

Be sure to try new varieties. If you grow the same varieties from year to year, the pathogens gradually adapt to their immune profile.

The variety, as it were, “cultivates” its “freeloaders” – more or less harmful races of fungi, subtypes of viruses capable of “chopping” its protection. Rotation of varieties allows not only to highlight the most delicious and suitable for your garden but also to reduce the threat of the spread of disease.

How to achieve good results

* Take seedlings from seedlings only from the most productive plants. 
The new plantation is usually laid partially purchased plants, partly with their planting material. Preparation of seedlings is better to start at harvest time. At this time, evaluate the bushes and look the best. Do not flatter yourself when you see a berry the size of a chicken egg on a bush: if a handful of “strawberry peas” ripens behind a single large berry on a plant, then the plant’s genetic potential is not high, and you will not achieve any yield from it or its posterity.


* Choose and mark with pegs plants with abundant, healthy, identical in size berries – these bushes are the most promising, it is worth taking planting material from them and only for laying the next plot. When a mustache begins to appear on the plants selected for breeding, with rooting it is better not to delay it – the delay will affect the quality of the planting material. Choose the most powerful outlet of the first order (departing from the parent bush). From the sockets of the second and subsequent orders (departing from the other daughter sockets) we get weaker bushes.

* Plant no later than August. To get the maximum yield, strawberries are best planted in July, in a well-lit area (even the sliding shadow of the tree prevents the plant from blooming and bearing fruit).

* Strawberries are responsive to supplement with boric acid. Signs of a boron deficiency: leaf curvature and edge necrosis. Feed boric acid contribute to the survival of seedlings, significantly increase the yield and improve the taste of berries. In early spring, planting is shed with a solution of boric acid with the addition of potassium permanganate (1 g potassium permanganate, 1 g of boric acid per 10 liters of water), consumption is about 10 liters per 30-40 bushes.

It is useful to conduct foliar feeding with a solution of boric acid (5 g per 10 l of water). When the plants have advanced buds, apply the foliar dressing with a solution (2 g of boric acid, 2 g of manganese, 1 cup of sifted ash per 10 liters of water). Make a hood out of the ashes beforehand: pour a glass of ash with boiling water and insist, stirring occasionally for 24 hours, then filter through gauze – and the infusion is ready.